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  • Story of the Byakkotai

    BACKGROUND

    • Edo period – shogunate rule (local lords, no central government)
    • Bushido – samurai were not busy with war, since Edo era was a 200 year era of peace
    • Tokugawa (shogun) was in power, many people didn’t even realize that there was an emperor
    • Meiji Restoration – give emperor real power, centralize government
    • Boshin Civil War – supporters of Tokugawa rebelled against Meiji government

    EVENTS OF BYAKKOTAI STORY

    • Byakkotai are fighting near Inawashiro and losing
    • return, defeated to Wakamatsu — arrive at Iimoriyama to see castle burning
    • seppuku (August 22 (or 23), 1868)
    • tragic twist – castle wasn’t burning, and the war in Aizu continued until November 6, 1868
    • the Boshin Civil War continued for 11 months until June 27, 1869 when Hakodate fell

    WHAT THE FUTURE HELD

    • people of Aizu were forced to give up clan system and follow orders of Meiji government
    • two options – stay here and become farmer (lowest class under shogun system) or move north to try to regain influence
    • 4000 chose to move north to Misawa-shi, Aomori-ken — conditions were extremely difficult, farming almost impossible, many former samurai became poor [hato-zamurai] and had to live on food that was normally used for animals

  • Tajima Restaurant Reviews

    Tajima-machi is a wee town nestled in the mountains of Aizu (Fukushima, Japan). It is the largest town in Minami Aizu (south Aizu), and boasts a population of 14,000. As the focal point of Minami Aizu, Tajima is graced with all of the modern conveniences, including a Lion Do, a York Benimaru, and two 7-11s. It is also home to a rather disproportionately large number of restaurants. I could probably go on for a couple of pages about each of the restaurants, but for the sake of time, I will limit my chatter to a couple of words about my two favourites. Both of these restaurants are owned by young, hip couples and eating at their restaurants feels like hanging out at your friends’ place.

    BAMBOO (0241-66-2305)

    Owned by Takeharu and Junko Baba
    15 minute drive from Tajima station
    5 minute drive from Aizu Kogen station
    Bamboo is a standard kissaten (cafe) that serves the standard fare, including hamburg, spaghetti, curry, and sandwiches. However, these dishes are not like the normal coffee-shop-that-has-to-serve-some-meals-to-make-it-look-like-a-restaurant kind of food. They are really quite beyond compare. Try the cream spaghetti. (In fact, the cream spaghetti is so good that I rarely order anything else.) You can also satisfy your sweet tooth with an assortment of parfaits and crepe desserts. They serve no less than 11 different kinds of coffee and 14 kinds of tea. An English menu is available.

    KURIYA (0241-62-5178)

    Owned by Takatomo and Ruriko Baba
    30 second walk from Tajima station
    Some people say it’s Korean, some say it’s south-east Asian, but they’re all wrong. The dishes served at this izakaya (pub/bar) were created by the resident chef, Takatomo, making it 100% original. The open kitchen lets you watch Takatomo perform as he “creates” your order. Try the Popeye Salad and the Onigiri Croquette (breaded rice ball with cheese centre covered in a tasty sauce). The menu changes often as the Babas (no relation to the Bamboo owners) think up new dishes. This is the kind of restaurant that sticks in your mind. You won’t taste anything like it again — until you pay the Babas another visit.


  • Leaving Home

    This article was written for a newsletter in Aizu Wakamatsu, Fukushima, Japan. The series is called “Leaving Home” (Furusato o hanare).

    I was born in Dunnville, Ontario on the north shore of Lake Erie. When I was quite young, my family moved to Toronto. When I was six, we moved to Whitby, a town of 40,000 people (now a lot more) on the north shore of Lake Ontario. I went to elementary school, junior high school, and high school in Whitby. After I graduated from high school, I went to work in England for a year. When I returned to Canada, I went straight into Queen’s University in Kingston, a two-hour drive from where my parents lived. When I was in my second year of university, my parents moved from Whitby to a small island on a small lake north of the Great Lakes called Scugog Island. Upon graduating from university, I accepted a job on the JET programme as an ALT in Tajima-machi. I stayed in Tajima for two years and then found my present job, as a Co-ordinator for International Relations at the International Association in Aizu Wakamatsu.

    So, this is my fourth year in Japan and ever since I arrived in 1995, Japanese people have asked me, “How does this place (Tajima/Wakamatsu) compare with your ‘furusato’ (hometown)?” I always have trouble answering that question, because as you can see, I don’t really have a furusato.

    What makes a town a “furusato”? Is it a fact, like your place of birth? In that case, my “furusato” is Dunnville. But I was so young when I moved away from there that I can hardly remember it. It’s just a town like any other town. So, is a furusato about length of residence? If so, then my furusato is Whitby. But even Whitby is becoming dim in my memory, since I haven’t lived there since 1990, and I haven’t even visited it in more than 3 years. Or is it defined by where your parents live – even if your parents live on a strange little island that you have only been to two or three times? Or is it something else?

    If I understand it correctly, a furusato is not about facts or measurements or decisions made by your parents. It’s about comfort. It’s the place where you feel the most “at home”. It’s the place where you can walk around and feel like you belong, like there’s a place for you in the town, and that place will always be there for you, no matter how far you may roam.

    If we think of furusato that way, then there is one place that stands out above the others for me. You may be surprised, but I would choose Tajima above all the rest! I am pretty fond of Tajima, and since that was where I first heard about furusato, I think of it as my first real hometown. When I am there, I can get that “at home” feeling – where the people at the bank and the post office know me and the guy at the gas station stops and talks to me every morning on my way to work.

    So even though we may be very far away from what others would call our furusato, some of us are lucky enough to find another place to call home. So rather than “furusato o hanare” (leaving home), in my case I think a good title would be furusato no hakken (discovering home)!

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